By Dustin Simpson
Rinsing sediment from an RV water heater is an essential maintenance task to ensure its proper functioning and longevity. Sediment can accumulate in the bottom of the tank over time, which can reduce the heater’s efficiency and potentially cause damage.
Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to rinse sediment from an RV water heater:
Note: Before performing any maintenance on your RV water heater, make sure the heater is turned off and has had enough time to cool down.
Locate the water heater
The first step is to locate your RV’s water heater. The water heater is usually located near the outside of the RV and can be identified by a metal door or panel.
Shut off the water supply
Find the water heater’s water supply line and shut off the water flow to the heater. This may involve turning a valve or disconnecting a hose, depending on your RV’s setup.
Relieve pressure
Before you proceed, it’s essential to relieve any pressure that might have built up inside the water heater. You can do this by opening a hot water faucet inside the RV.
Access the drain plug
The RV water heater will have a drain plug at the bottom of the tank. It is typically a small valve or cap. You may need a wrench or pliers to open it, depending on the design.
Place a bucket
Position a bucket or container beneath the drain plug to catch the water and sediment that will come out.
Open the drain plug
Carefully open the drain plug, allowing the water and sediment to flow into the bucket. Be cautious as the water might still be hot, so wearing gloves is advisable.
Flush the tank
Once the water has drained, you can flush the tank to help remove any remaining sediment. To do this, briefly turn on the water supply to the heater while keeping the drain plug open. The water will flow into the tank and flush out through the drain, carrying away loose sediment.
Close the drain plug
After flushing, close the drain plug securely.
Refill the tank
Turn on the water supply to the water heater again to refill the tank.
Check for leaks
Check for any leaks around the drain plug and water supply connections to ensure everything is properly sealed.
Turn on the water heater
Once the tank is filled, you can turn on the RV water heater following the manufacturer’s instructions.
It’s generally recommended to perform this sediment-rinsing process at least once a year or more frequently if you notice reduced hot water performance or if you frequently camp in areas with hard water. Regular maintenance will help keep your RV water heater running efficiently and extend its lifespan.
Before installing a new anode rod, I would also recommend flushing out the tank using a flush wand like this one.
Flushing out the sediment in the bottom of the tank will help prevent damage.
Other RV water heater tools
Make sure you check out our website, California RV Specialists, and our YouTube channel for more helpful information, and see our published articles on RVtravel.com and other social media pages.
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RVDT2700
One way to make sure the heater does not have hot water in it is to shut off the heater and open a hot faucet. The tank will fill with cold water. This will also agitate the water in the tank and some debris will be suspended in the water since the cold water supply is near the bottom of the tank.
I’m also glad to see you recommended the all metal flush wand and not the cheap plastic one that is prone to breaking.
All agreed, if you are on external water. Also, I have both the metal and the plastic wand flushers. Yes the plastic is prone to cracking at the base (you don’t want it to fly off into the heater). However, I’ve found the plastic wand flushes out more debris than my metal wand (the one Dustin recommends).
Second step should be turning off the electric heating element. As an extra precaution I also turn off the circuit breaker to prevent turning it on with the water heater empty. Turning it on with no water in the tank will instantly destroy the heating element.
With both my Suburban and Dometic (Atwood) heaters (we have a large and small TT) water from the drain hole hits the bottom sill and spreads before cascading down. If you don’t want to let the high mineral content water hit the ground, most buckets won’t help – too narrow and insufficient capacity. You’ll need a wider wash tub with a capacity of your water heater plus the flush water. At 8 pounds per gallon, you may not be able to lift the container by the time you are done. Just sayin’
I guess that minimal flushing will work if you don’t have a lot of sediment in your heater. Inspection process for anode rod?…… another half-done procedure presented by RV Travel
Thank you for the suggestion, Dustin! As has already been said or implied, why not continue and flush out the deposits at the bottom of the tank and below the drain plug? Either way, regular inspection and service usually is much cheaper than the repairs often following failing to regularly inspect. Have a great day and safe travels!