Earlier this week, we received this letter from reader Bob, which includes his description and design for his “perfect” trailer. Please read through Bob’s design, then leave your ideas, suggestions, advice, critiques, etc., in the comments below. Bob will be thrilled to hear from you. Thank you!
Here’s what Bob wrote:
“Hi, I’ve been sending this out to trailer manufacturers, with some good responses, but no actual trailer has been produced. If it makes sense to you, please publish it in your magazine and request that folks submit ideas to improve it. I’d like this RV to remain small and simple, and with the full set of features. It should be fun to see the comments it inspires.” —Bob in Colorado
A suggestion for trailer manufacturers from a long-time camper
Singles or couples looking for a complete set of features, good construction, reliability, and operational simplicity in a small, light towing package should be interested in this design— there’s nothing out there quite like it. After decades of camping in larger but less competent trailers, I dreamed this up on my daily walks.
Floorplan and concept
With twin beds, one can get up at night without crawling over the other. The bathroom is complete and comfortable. Multitasking minimizes camper length and weight. Simplification makes for ease of use, lower cost, and reliability. Construction emphasis: long-term durability at reasonable cost.
Key features:
• A dry bath plus a dressing room, convertible twin-to-queen bed, a large fridge, pantry, and dinette in a very small trailer.
• Swing out the braced seatback, drop in a back cushion to create the dinette’s second seat.
• Tilt up the extension over the other bed for kitchen prep space: there’s more on the dinette.
• Excellent off-grid capabilities.
• The short, light, narrow body and twin axles provide safe, easy towing and rear visibility.
Construction
• Dual axles for blowout protection. A blowout is the most common (and among the worst) trailer accidents; it’s a real and nagging concern on a hot August highway. Two extra wheels solve it and delete the spare tire.
• Mount the wheels partially outside the trailer box to increase interior volume.
• All materials: composite or aluminum—no water-absorbers.
• Best is an all-welded aluminum frame and roof, with closed-cell insulation.
• Include a fiberglass roof skin with a lifetime seal around the air conditioner’s cutout. (No sealant goo to check regularly and repair. This is the only roof cutout.)
A dry bath in a small camper is wonderful:
• Design the trailer for a full-ceiling 6’3” shower height. No dome to penetrate the roof.
• The shower door swings out and stops at the other wall to create a changing room.
• Include a water-saver “recirc until hot” system and a low-flow shower head.
• Drop-down sink and a medicine chest above the toilet.
• Fit 50 gallons of fresh water (two connected tanks above/forward of the axles), 30-gal grey, and either a 20-gal black tank or a cassette toilet. Fresh water is a boondocker’s gold.
• Tanks and dump valves inside the enclosed underbelly.
• Vent the black tank out the back wall up high to avoid a roof penetration.
• Use a quiet, variable-speed water pump with a flexible hose section at the outlet to quiet the pulsing.
• Build in a campground (“city water”) pressure controller and replaceable filter. Set it permanently to 20PSI to protect the plumbing.
• Slope all pipes toward a central drain for quick winterization without pumping antifreeze. Simple winterizing: Drain for a few minutes, pour a little antifreeze into the traps. A plus: no antifreeze taste on the next trip.
• Absolute requirement: A single-point dump hose connection. No one wants to wrangle a dripping hose from the black outlet to the grey.
Optimize/simplify everything:
• Install a propane furnace/water heater combo under the bed adjacent to the kitchenette. Send some furnace heat to the underbelly—no tank heat pads needed.
• Spec a very quiet, large, well-insulated 48V DC fridge with a separate freezer door.
• Narrow, two-burner space-saver propane cooktop.
• Two 20 lb. propane tanks with auto-switch.
• Convection microwave above the kitchenette.
• Skip the roof rack—it interferes with solar and adds weight up high. We’ll put a carrier on our tow vehicle if needed.
• Skip the TV—we have tablets. (Include a wall-mounting plate and connections for the die-hards.)
• Simplify the electrical system: An outdoor and a hall light switch just inside the door; individual switches at the other lights; a simple thermostat; an accurate, simple tank level monitor; a Bluetooth cellphone link to the charge controller. We don’t have glitzy multi-screen panels running our homes, but we somehow manage.
Pre-solve the energy problems for us:
• Install the maximum area of thin and light flexible solar panels, with the A/C placed to maximize panel space. Mount the panels without roof penetrations (no goo): run the wires over the edge and through a rear wall port.
• Lithium batteries standard, please: ~7.5 kWh; two 48VDC banks under the driver-side bed.
• Install an MPPT solar controller with freezing-temperature charging prevention. This keeps the batteries safely topped up during winter storage, ready to roll.
• Include faulty-circuit warning LEDs in the campground electric cord.
• Use a 48VDC variable-speed-compressor low-profile air conditioner. They’re more energy-efficient and quieter than an AC A/C (no compressor-start surge). Use a white cover on the roof unit to reduce heat load and long-term heat damage.
• Spec a 3 kW 48VDC-to-110VAC inverter.
• Rear-wall-mounted and quiet max-air variable-speed exhaust fan at the toilet, with a wall switch plus a handheld thermostatic control. Save the roof space for solar.
• Allow space above the bathroom door to pull warm air from the camper.
• Note: With a 48DC system, all heavy DC wiring can be inexpensive, easily installed 12-gauge.
Amenities:
• The camp-side bed cushion slides to the left to create a queen when snuggling is desired.
• Install dual-pane acrylic tilt-open windows over the dinette and kitchen, plus a simple, shaded window in the door. No need for windows in the lighted bathrooms. All shades pull up (please) for privacy with ventilation; bug screens pull down.
• Include a full-length camp-side wind-protected electric awning. (No need for a little over-door awning – we won’t be sitting there.)
• Include tire pressure monitoring and a wide-angle rearview RF camera system.
• Light colors inside and out for an open feel and reduced summer heat load.
No options! This thing is perfect. Build it, and we will come.
You might also consider:
• Including a small, propane-powered, quiet, and light $400 2.5kW (actual) portable generator. Store with its long hose in a secure/discreet box behind the propane tanks. It can be removed and run distant from the camper, if needed. Include lockable screw-in ground mount theft prevention.
• Uniting with other companies to talk a manufacturer into offering a 48VDC microwave. Microwaves convert AC to DC before producing the microwave energy; a DC-powered microwave should be less expensive in quantity.
• Including a one-year paid subscription to a Visible (Verizon system) cell device. It includes unlimited 5G data plus Canada and Mexico service. It’s $500/yr., and they’ll probably discount for a manufacturer. Mount the antenna high on the rear wall—no roof penetration. We’ve used Visible for a decade: they’re excellent. (Wire in a simple connector for Starlink—we can order that, if needed.)
• Offering two years of certified mobile tech contact-assistance warranty service U.S.-wide. We’ll call you for help, you determine a tech’s availability, authorize and provide their nearby number, and we call them and work out the details. These folks can fix a lot of problems quicker, better, cheaper, and happier than the usual limp back to the dealer and wait for months. We’ll report back on their competence; you’ll get info on trailer problems to reduce future calls.
—Bob
What do you think? Leave your ideas, suggestions, advice, critiques, etc., in the comments below. Also, if you would like to forward this to your favorite RV manufacturer, Bob would appreciate it.
RELATED
- Finding the ‘perfect’ RV requires a shift in perspective
- New RV park owner asks, ‘What do RVers want?’ Help him build the perfect RV park!
- A list of “must-haves” can help you buy your perfect RV
- How far would you go to get your perfect RV? These RVers went far…
RVT1247
Gotta say, the limited roof penetrations is an excellent idea!
All sounds really good. We are not full timers, however, we still prefer our absorption elec/propane fridge for more flexibility for running it off grid (the sun is not always very cooperative and we don’t like noisy generators). A back end entry would take some getting used to, but might like it. Thin, flexible solar panels are not very durable. We also prefer a flush toilet, maybe a cassette as an option? Nice work, Bob.
I like it. Too small for me personally but I read the entire article and see the vision. It’s maddening to hear your good descriptions of how things should work and to think that the manufacturer’s engineers seemingly never thought of these things! Common sense is not so common. Please let us know the reaction!
As for the layout, it closely resembles the Leisure Travel Van Rear Twin Bed design, and amenities, used in their Ford and Mercedes Benz motorhomes. However, Bob has some great ideas, like the sloping drains and side vents rather than through the roof, or example, that LTV should consider.
Not gonna lie, the door on the rear would be a show stopper for me. No place for a bike or cargo rack. I’m also kind of curious how someone is supposed to enter or leave while the shower or throne’s occupied.
There are a few trailers that are similar to this configuration out there now but here is one challenge: I love the idea of the limited roof penetrations but you will need to accommodate a vent from the black and gray tanks. You could do this on the side somehow but the roof makes the most sense.
Presently most RV AC units use a gasket that is a compression gasket so that’s covered.
I don’t understand why wheels external to the body – this is physical width that does nothing for interior space.
I love the dinette idea where the end of the bed is a seat.
The closest I can think of include the Ember RV 240TKR, Casita Discovery and Escape 23.
Perhaps 12v computer fans could be installed in the outlets of the side-mounted gray and black tank vents to exhaust the tanks. It would be similar to the 12v fan I installed in the propane/120vac fridge vent in my first trailer.
Bob, sounds like you’re on the right track. However, as a full time rv’er, you are missing a lot of storage and counter space.
I would like to see the fridge be 17-20 cuft for long term use, a side by side two burner stove top so you don’t have to reach over a hot pot to get at a another while cooking. Or a two burner induction stove top. No need for an oven, use that area for drawers . Need a lot more storage for clothing, maybe drawers under both beds. Make the dinette table removable or on a bracket that allows it to drop down to make another bed. No poles to remove or install, they become loose and wobble. Need outdoor storage for gear and have a spare tire. Even for two axles.
Got to have a spare tire. Add great plumbing fittings and connections and shutoff’s at sinks, toilet, etc. I’d want a real RV toilet system. Rear door may be an issue at some camp spots. I too am a fan of the 120 V/propane fridge’s. Great planning Bob!
Bob, more things!
Have a hitch under door for a extra carrier, or up front outside storage.
Outside shower hose hot and cold. Drop down outside table 6′ so don’t have to carry spares.
Where to put the outside chairs?
Not all people use trucks to haul trailers. What’s the weight and cargo cap of this trailer?
Trying to get the wife’s input soon. Needs a woman’s touch of items needed for them.
Lots of solid thoughts on design and choices (48v vs 12v, dual axle, variable speed pumps and a/c, dc microwave, lower bed reuse, combined tank drains).
Not sure the rear entry into the bathroom wouldn’t be problematic with a spouse using it when you and friends are outside as a bear enters camp. 🙂
I’d add a rear hitch on trailer for bicycles. Maybe even e-bikes. 200lb should do it.
Many of us mess with our trailers. A wiring closet panel with thought out access to trouble and maintenance spots would be awesome. Use of WACO connectors a plus.
A built in surge protector and campground power monitor would avoid hanging a $250 device on the pole outside.
Very good ideas for a small camper. A couple suggestions for consideration:
1 – Use a mini-split heat pump for the AC and some heat. Mount the outside part on the back wall which eliminates the big hole in the roof.
2 – Install the furnace under the stove, or better yet, use an hydronic radiant floor heating system. This gets that noisy furnace out from under the bed. The radiant system will do a better job of heating the enclosed and insulated underbelly.
Use the new trapless drain systems. I would definitely want a spare tire. I would need some seating more comfortable than at the dinette. I want a wall mounted TV, and a real toilet.
A number of trailers now hang a spare under the trailer tongue, similar to the underbed spares on pickups. So, it wouldn’t need to be on the rear or top of the tongue. It might even be an option that could easily be added by the dealer.
I think a lot of people would find your work would fit them just fine. For me, the very first thing I look for is a king bed. And, having needed a spare tire a few times over the years, that would be a necessity.
Very thoughtful design. Shower/ dressing room door is great.
I like the focus on quality and simplicity of the design, especially the focus on removing holes from the roof. I would go with an 8ft wide trailers since 7ft seems a little tight for bigger guys. I might also include a bump out option.
Perfect RV article: I really like the dual axles for safety. It’s also great that the second dinette seat (which may or may not be used) is the end of the bed. Great bathroom for such a small trailer. I cook, so the kitchen counterspace is way too small for me but probably not a problem for others. What really caught my attention was the recommendation for Visible by Verizon. I’d never heard of this cell phone service and it looks perfect for me. Maybe someone could write an article about it for a future newsletter? Thank you!
Awesome, I think I would put a rod in that pantry and make sure that the shelves are removable or adjustable. I think people need more clothing storage than they do food storage. That seems to be my biggest complaint: there are not enough places to put your clothes, especially hanging clothes. I would put overhead storage all the way around the bunks above the dinette, and I would put cabinets in the kitchen above it and below it. Possibly below the bunks, if you could squeeze a drawer in on either side, that would be helpful. Put some of those magnetic towel hooks in front of the toilet. Maybe on the wall beside the door coming in, you could put some hooks too, for coats.
Where’s the motor? Did I miss something? I didn’t see the engine compartment. LoL, I’m a motorhome guy, but Bob has some smart, creative ideas. Now we know a lot of RVs are not designed by RV’ers, so someone should hire Bob.
After reading all the other comments, maybe a back porch where people can put their bikes in their chairs and all their BS when they’re traveling, and take them down and use them when they get there. And then you can put the spare tire on the back of that. The porch wouldn’t have to add much length, say 6 foot.
Some good solid ideas, but there never seems to be enough room around RV toilets. Most are wedged between a wall and (too small) vanity or (too large) cabinet or shower wall.
Also, eliminate east/west beds on ALL RVs! If you can fit an east/west bed, put in a murphy queen bed instead! Too many smaller RV floorplans are ruined by E/W beds, when a Murphy queen would make them perfect.
No ‘standing room’ camper should have less than 6′ 6″ headroom!
Looking at most campers today you can’t help but wonder if the people designing these floorplans actually USE their designs.
Not EVERY empty space needs an oversized cabinet stuffed in it.
Couples campers dont need to sleep 7 people.
Bathrooms should be larger than a phone booth!
Shower are great, but how about room to dry off once out of the shower!
And most toilets shouldn’t need a shoehorn to use!
Not every owner spends 90% of their time OUTSIDE their camper.
Manufacturers should listen to users more and interior designers less!
I recommend a composting toilet EGO.
This would be perfect in a 20′. Good ideas. Take heed, RV manufacturers.
It all sounds great but what about storage for clothing, food and utensils? I don’t want to have to go to the vehicle everytime I need something. I need more details since I’m the one that has to pack it in
I primarily boondock…have a “boondocking” option package that consists of 500W solar, 400 amps lithium batteries, 3500w inverter. No propane or black tank. Larger fresh tank. Use induction burners (2) and composting toilet. Include many usb outlets for charging and regular outlets for low watt items.
I want it! Only requests I would make are an induction cooktop replacing the propane burners and a 24-48vdc, side-mounted AC, maybe sitting on top of the fridge. That would allow NO roof penetrations and a wide-open space to fill with more flexible solar panels. We currently love our twin beds that can make into a king, flexible solar panels, MPPT solar controller, Li batteries, 2kw inverter, induction cooktop, and conv-micro.
We have a propane generator too, but have only used it once in 5 years while camping! We do have a motorhome alternator helping recharge the house batteries, but a welding-wire direct line between the alternator and the trailer batteries can do the same thing.
I think you need more ceiling height and at least an option for an additional sleeping area. A 7’ ceiling would also provide more storage room. And you need more storage. If I’m reading the plan correctly, the only “door” to the toilet would be the shower door. Make that a slider into the empty wall space so you have privacy if someone uses the toilet still allows access to the door. You don’t have an emergency exit marked. There’s no second door available so one of your windows needs to be large enough to allow exiting if needed, preferably one near the beds. A good start but still needs a little work.
Great ideas! I hope one or more manufacturers will use your ideas and hopefully name the trailer after you. Here’s a suggestion, #1 make sure the toilet is porcelain, elongated with a soft close seat and can have an optional bidet. #2 Instead of those twin beds use a queen size bed so that there is room on each side to walk around. #3 yes, there are advantages to flexible solar panels but one big disadvantage is once they heat up they lose efficiency and their plastic surface clouds over in a couple years which further reduces solar input. #4 instead of a membrane roof use the spray on type that’s very similar to truck bed liner spray, includes lifetime warranty, no more roof maintenance.
Ironically, this is very similar to our first trailer, a 1974 Shasta. Still had the side door vs rear and almost identical layout except a little longer. it was a great little trailer easy to pull and great for weekend to longer stays. We used it for deer season campouts until we outgrew it’s sleeping capacity. Storage was one of the biggest complaints. Amazing how much crap we bring with us sometimes. Great design by the way.
A thoughtful design, for sure, but not for me. I am too spoiled by my 40’ Class A DP and all its amenities.
i would lose the shower in favor of ceiling to floor closet
Great work. But entrance through the bathroom is a big no-no for me.
I love that you are thinking outside the box (no pun intended)! Love some of the construction ideas! However, you lost me with the back door/dressing room, the length and width, and the interior height. This is not a trailer built for tall people like hubby who is 6’3. I doubt bed would be long enough either. Also doesn’t allow for dogs. We are full-timers and need more storage. Kitchen design is not conducive to daily meal preparation use. Don’t like dinettes. Would prefer a counter space in front of a window with seating. Definitely need a tv or projector/screen. The flip up over the bed would give me concern that something might spill over onto the bed. Keep creating😊
This trailer isn’t designed for full-timers or for more than 2 people. It is for a couple or, say, a father and teenage son or daughter who like to go to a remote hunting lease or gold-medal trout stream for a week of off-grid camping. That’s the reason for the big freshwater tank, solar panels, Li battery, and 48vdc power system. For those scenarios, this would be a great improvement over most current travel trailers!
I see this trailer as a short-term camping RV. If towing with a pickup, bikes etc. could be stored there. Another option would be to change the shower area to a storage area for those that use a campground only as they would use the campground showers.
Bob,
I think your RV is great
Live in NZ & would buy one if they a manufacturer would make yours
John
Brilliant!
“The perfect RV”
A few comments regarding the perfect RV.
#1, The placement of the entry door in the rear, should a fire/emergency breakout the ingress/egress should be placed closer to the middle of the rig.
#2, The door on the rear also limits a bumper for sewer hose storage.
#3, HVAC, I would consider a mini split system.
#4, The 7′ width of the rig, Construction materials are generally manufactured with 2′ spacing eliminating unnecessary waste.
#5, I would target 3500/4000 lb. weight for the rig.
#6, Consider using real wood for cabinets and millwork. Poplar weighs a lot less than the MDF products.
Excellent concept! You did your homework. Good Job.
Make sure all of the underbelly connection points are sealed and no bigger than they need to be.
Hard “Nope” from me. I don’t like twin beds, and the whole thing is too cramped. It’d be best at a truck camper for ONE person…
Looks somewhat similar to a sailboat interior layout
Well, Bob, if I were you I would rush to visit the folks at Embassy RV who have built something much better than you are wishing for, and that has years of testing and refinements behind it! You WILL wait… they have a long wait list, but it is worth it!
Hi Bob,
After reading your article, I can tell you that there is a manufacture that already exists that can incorporate all of your needs and ideas into your floorspace design.
That manufacture is Peak mountain Camps, located in Spring City Utah. Everything is custom made and installed per your specifications. Go online at: peakmtncamps.com or give them a call at (435) 462-7325. They are a great company to work with.