I recently got this question from an RVtravel.com reader about his trailer tires:
Roger, back in March 2024 I bought a Bear Track Aluminum Trailer to tow my new-to-me Harley Trike. The bed is 10′, trike fits great, trailer weight 400 lbs. and I love it. But not so happy about the tires.
For one thing, I just found that when I bought the trailer, the tires were already over 2 years old, date stamp is “0822”. Anyway, we did a short trip in April 2024, all was fine. Then a big trip in October 2024 and about 80 miles from home we had a flat. A puncture, so not the tire’s fault.
But then in March 2025, I took the trailer back to where we bought it, because on one side the wheel wiggled. They said the bearing needed tightened, and they did that under warranty. But they also told me the tire on the other side had a broken belt. They got that replaced under warranty, as well.
Then just last week, returning home from a 5 day trip, on the other tire a belt broke while on the road and the tire went immediately flat. So now, of all 3 tires, only the patched tire (now the spare) is even usable.
So, my question is, what brand do people recommend most for trailer tires and where can I get some that were made very recently. The ones that came with the trailer are MasterTrack UN203 Branded, Size: ST175/80R13, other numbering: 6PR 91/87M Load Range C, rated at 1360 lbs. (single). I think that means one tire on each side. So the Trike weight is 1200 lbs. and the trailer 400 lbs. So that should be 1600 lbs. total, or only 800 lbs. exerted onto each tire. Well below the limit indicated.
Also this tire says Plies: Tread Polyester 1 + Steel 2 Sidewall Polyester 1.
I am willing to spend more for a better brand, higher Load Range, whatever it takes. —John C.
My answer
Based on the numbers in your post, I’m not sure why you are having “broken belt” problems. That term is kind of a catch-all, so without seeing the tire and lacking a few pictures of the “broken belts,” I am doing a little “shooting in the dark.” But here goes.
An 0822 date tire should not be having belt problems at that light of a load. However, if the dealer was willing and able to change one tire under warranty at 3 years old and the second tire was also having some issue at 3-1/2 years, it is not unreasonable for you to “shop around”.
In my opinion, an ST175/80R13 LR-C when only loaded to 50% of its “rated load” in your type of service should be good for 4+ years, assuming it is always fully inflated to 50 psi.
I would suggest you check with etrailer.com, as they have both radial and bias tires in LR-D in your size. Even though the etrailer tires are LR-D, you can get 1,360 lb. load capacity at 50 psi as long as you keep them inflated to that level.
Roger Marble
MORE POSTS FROM ROGER
- RV Tire Safety: Can Ai adequately provide advice on RV tires?
- How and why to photograph your tire sidewall info
- When to replace tires? Find out here
- Is a tire sidewall ‘bulge’ a sign of a ‘defect’?
- Is this a tire ‘defect’ or driver’s fault?
- ‘Defective’ tires: Just what is the ‘defect’?
- People still erroneously blame ‘defective’ tires for ‘blowouts’
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Why so many BAD trailer tires?
Pretty Simple!
Everyone including the RV and trailer manufacturers buy CHEAP CHINESE OFF-SHORE MADE TIRES!
The trailer/RV owner overloads their vehicle/trailer and BOOM tread separation or complete tire failure.
I personally gave up on trailer tires many years ago and began using truck rated tires on all my trailers after one particular incident. I have never had a trailer tire issue since changing to truck rated tires!
That one incident was pulling my 2 car trailer from Nashville to Dallas with 1 car on the trailer. Trailer had 6 new Goodyear Marathon tires on it. 5 of the 6 had tread separation in 600 miles. Last time using trailer tires.
I think that if you read the material list on the tire sidewall you will discover that the GY Marathon only had 2 steel belts in the tread. The newer GY Endurance has 2 steel belts PLUS a Nylon “cap ply”. This cap ply addresses the significant forces found due to “Interply Shear” forces found in multi-axle trailers. You can learn more about that force in my posts on my blog HERE.
bull, on IRV2 I asked about this too. Several people, like you recommend truck tires or even passenger car tires (with 13″ rims I’d probably have to go P vs LT). I’m willing to try that. But when I first got the trailer, everything I read, videos I looked at, even the Owner Manual said to ONLY USE ST TIRES on the Trailer. So I took them at their word. At this point, I’m willing to get the very best tires for my trailer I can find, not too concerned if they cost more.
Roger, thanks and I also got your reply in my email. Will be away for T-giving week, but plan to get on this when I get back. I also got a recommendation for Carlstar 175/80R13 in LR-D. Are you familiar with them? Your thoughts on staying with ST or moving to P if I can find some?
Hi Roger, just wanted to update you, hope you see this. Getting this taken care of, took a bit longer, with the holidays and other stuff. But I just got all 3 original wheels, tires replaced. I went with the Carlisle ST Radial Tires, M96, LRD. Looking at your earlier response, I wanted to confirm, with a total weight of 1600 lbs (1200 lb trike, 400lb alum trailer), I can stay at 50 lbs (like I had with the LRC tires) and still be running good pressure, which would support up to 1360 lbs per tire. But will only be carrying a load of 800 lbs per tire. Also, these are fairly new. 2 were made 4125 (I will put those on the axle) and spare will use the 3725 tire.
Hi, John. I’ve emailed your comment to Roger, in case he doesn’t notice it on this prior post. Have a great day. 😀 –Diane at RVtravel.com
Keeping tire loading well below the rating found in the Load & Inflation tables is always a good plan.
Excess speed, excess overloading, and improper inflation are probably the reason so many people complain about “China bombs”, or other poor quality tires.
My “China bombs” Sailun tires have been on my 2020 Montana for nearly six years, and about 100,000 km. I was going to change them a year ago, but the Sailun representative told me I have enough tread and should use them for one more Snowbird winter! What amazing service!
I will replace them in the spring with a new set of Sailun’s as the tread is now sufficiently worn to warrant it. I don’t drive over 100 km/hr, my trailer is never overloaded, and I maintain a proper inflation that is monitored with my TPMS. ZERO issues in six years!
Well mine are not overloaded (you can see from the info I sent to Roger, about 1/2 the load capacity being used). Max I drive my whole rig (RV & Trailer) is 65mph. Like you, I have TPMS on the tires and keep them at 50psi (the max psi for the max load on the tire).
Best of luck finding the right tire for your situation.
Have you had it weighed?
Yes, the entire trailer loaded with trike is 1600 lbs. Trike is 1200 lbs, trailer weight is 400 lbs. Based on the ratings on the tire, the total weight could be as much as 2720 lbs (1360 per tire, L side & R side). So I am at just under 60% of that load rating. But my thought is going up to LR-D (even though not needed) ought to give me a much sturdier tire, which should hold up better. I think the original tires, which were already 2 yrs old when I got the trailer, were just not very good tires. Beside being well under the load rating, I limit my speed to 65mph driving my MH.