By Dustin Simpson
Join me in our RV shop as we inspect the standard way that RV manufacturers install roofline moldings. During my inspection of an RV side wall, I will be explaining more about rain gutter joints, how moldings are butted together, how they are secured against the walls of most RVs, and how often the insert moldings need to be replaced.
I will be pointing out manufacturing issues, such as incorrectly installed moldings, molding that is stapled in place, joints that are incorrectly sealed, and gaps seamed, and will be talking about the damage that can occur.
Towards the end of the video, we find sealants above the slideout that have failed, as well. Follow along as I show you signs and discuss in-depth the problems that can cause thousands of dollars of damage if not corrected.
Tips and tricks to prevent damage
We will lightly touch on some different tips and tricks that we do in the RV shop to help prevent damage.
So grab a quick snack as we dive into this short video clip to learn more about all things regarding RV maintenance on your RV walls.
DIY products to use
- CRL Tapered Plastic End Stick Tool CRL216
- Kent Auto Body Degreaser
- Heavy Duty Vinyl Insert Trim, 1 inch Wide, 100 foot Roll, Black, White or Colonial
- Dicor Non-Sag Sealant — You will want to use non-sag sealant on all corners and side seams on the roof. Non-sag sealant is offered in several colors.
- Dicor Self-Leveling Sealant – Roof surface, for moldings, seams, vents, skylights, etc. It is also offered in several colors.
- Accessory Installation Kit – Sealant, putty and scraper.
More from Dustin
Make sure you check out my website, California RV Specialists, and our YouTube channel for more helpful information, and see our published articles on RVtravel.com and other social media pages.
RELATED
- The cause of side wall cracks near the front cap of an RV
- RV inspector shares how to catch RV water damage early
- Watch an RV front cap and insert molding inspection
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The sealant just above that metal track is prone to very tiny cracks which will water off the roof to slowly seep behind the side wall. The easy job is tweaking the track tightness and replacing the vinyl insert. The other important job is redoing the sealant above the track. I use painter tape carefully aligned with the face of the track and matching color non-self leveling lap sealant. With a gloved finger I run a bead of sealant to the top of the track against the rubber roof membrane. You don’t need a lot and the finger helps push the sealant down into any teeny voids along the track. Wait just a few minutes and pull off the tape at a 45° angle.
Thanks to you Justin I was able to replace my insert molding and, as Jim Johnson describes, I re-did the sealant above the molding. These are easy tasks once described in articles and reader comments like these. Thank you!