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Will these power sources keep my RV refrigerator running while driving?

Hi, Dave,
My rig now has three Deka Intimidator AGM 12-volt 105-Ah batteries (Group 31). I installed three 250-watt solar panels along with a HQST 60-amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller connected directly to the house batteries, bypassing the inverter. Should this setup along with my diesel’s alternator allow me to run just the original refrigerator during travel days of 4 to 5 hours? I also have a Freedom SW 3012 Xantrex inverter. Thanks for your time and expertise! —Wayne, 2003 Winnebago Journey DL

Hi, Wayne,
According to the Winnebago brochure online, the Journey came standard with a Norcold double door refrigerator and had an option for a double door with an icemaker or a four door option. It looks like all three were absorption, meaning they could run on LP or 120-volt power.

Running the RV refrigerator on 120-volt power

I am not a fan of running the refrigerator on LP while driving, although you will find many owners that do it. So let’s look at running the refrigerator on 120-volt power through the inverter while driving.

With the new AGM batteries, you have 315 Ah (105 x 3) of which you should only draw down 50% State Of Charge (SOC)—so that means approximately 155 Ah. Since they are new and AGM, I would also assume they are not sulfated and have close to 100% capacity.

I don’t have the exact power specifications of your refrigerator running on 120-volt power. However, tests show a residential model running through an inverter can run approximately four hours on a 100 Ah AGM battery before getting to 50% SOC. So, I would estimate your refrigerator could last three times that, or 12 hours, with no additional charge.

Solar panels

Now, factor in the solar panels that will provide a charge if you are getting direct sunlight while traveling. That could produce 750 watts of power. However, most are under 80% capacity. That alone would be plenty to keep the batteries up longer than the 4-5 hours you need.

Then the diesel alternator will provide a charge through the Battery Isolation Management (BIM) solenoid. So, I do believe there is plenty of charging power to run the refrigerator for much longer than you need.


 You might also enjoy these posts from Dave 


Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

Read more from Dave here

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Send your inquiries to him using the form below.

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RVDT2644

Genius steamed vegetable RV cooking hack

By Cheri Sicard
Do you carry a box grater in your RV? These handy gadgets shred four different textures. They are a bit bulky, but you can maximize space by putting them over smaller items when in storage, for instance, tuna or tomato sauce cans, spice bottles, small cooking tools, etc.

The RV cooking hack (well, it is also a home cooking hack, but it makes sense for RVers) shown in the short video makes even more sense to having this object along. If you love steamed broccoli and other veggies, you are going to love this.

Steamed veggies the easy way

Put the washed, trimmed broccoli inside the grater, then place the grater over a pot of boiling water, and steam until done to your liking.

I usually grate some cheese to put on top before beginning, that way the steaming even helps clean the grater as the broccoli cooks.

Don’t limit yourself to broccoli. This easy camping and RV cooking hack also works with cauliflower, squashes, carrots, cabbage wedges, kale, and other larger veggies.

Click here to watch. (Sorry, YouTube won’t let us embed it.)

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RVDT2644

Ford recalls nearly 274,000 SUVs over brake line flaw

“You don’t miss your water ‘til your well runs dry.” May that sentiment not apply to towing an RV with a big SUV and you find your brake fluid is gone. Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2022-2024 Navigator and Expedition vehicles.

The front brake lines may contact the engine air cleaner outlet pipe and become damaged, possibly resulting in a brake fluid leak and a loss of front brake function. A loss of brake function increases the risk of a crash.

Potentially 273,789 rigs are affected by this Ford SUV brake recall.

Ford SUV brake recall
Ford SUV

Ford SUV brake recall remedy

Dealers will inspect the front brake line and replace the brake line or air cleaner outlet pipe, as necessary, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed May 26, 2025. Owners may contact Ford customer service at 1-866-436-7332. Ford’s number for this recall is 25S47.

Notes

Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 888-327-4236 (TTY 888-275-9171) or go to nhtsa.gov.

How could this happen?

In late February 2025, Ford noticed a rise in warranty claims related to brake problems in 2022 Lincoln Navigators. This raised a red flag and prompted a closer investigation.

Between March and April 2025, Ford looked into how these vehicles were being built at its Kentucky Truck Plant. They discovered that the way radiator hoses were stored during engine installation may have been causing problems.

Before November 20, 2024, the hose could accidentally catch on a front brake line during assembly, which might bend the brake line. If bent, the brake line could end up rubbing against other engine parts, which could eventually cause it to leak.

After November 20, Ford changed the process to prevent this from happening. But vehicles built before that date—especially 2022 Expeditions and Navigators—might still have this issue due to the older assembly method and a new brake line design introduced that model year.

How widespread is the Ford SUV brake recall problem?

As of April 17, 2025, Ford is aware of 45 warranty reports of a front brake line leak received between November 4, 2022 and April 8, 2024. Additionally, Ford is aware of two field reports received on August 4, 2022, and April 10, 2025, and two Customer Service Reports received on June 26, 2024, and August 28, 2024.

MORE RECALLS

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Amazon pushes into RV territory with $8 million, 200-site RV park

Internet giant Amazon is getting into all kinds of markets. RVers have been closely watching the company’s move to become an internet satellite provider through Project Kuiper. Now Amazon is getting into the RV park business. Well, sort of. Hermiston, Oregon, will soon become the home of a new Amazon RV park.

Amazon RV park to benefit both the company, and the community

Company offspring Amazon Web Services wants to build a huge data center near Hermiston. While under construction, plenty of workers will need a place to stay. Amazon recognizes that a lot of the temporary construction workers move from job site to job site in RVs. Why not build an RV park as a spot for these folks to stay during the build?

Amazon’s forte isn’t the construction business, so the company approached Hermiston city officials and made them an offer they couldn’t refuse. “Here,” says Amazon. “We’ll give you $8 million, you build us an RV park on city land on or near the Eastern Oregon Trade & Event Center. Build 200 RV sites, you can keep 100 of them for yourself, and reserve the other half for us to rent from you.” Nah, we don’t think they used those exact words, but that’s what it boiled down to.

City grabs the deal

Amazon RV park
Hermiston, Oregon’s Riverfront Park MIM1765 on wikimedia.org

On Monday, May 11, the city council voted 6 to 1 to take the $8 million and run. While officially speaking, “The [other 100] remaining spaces will be available for events,” Assistant City Manager Mark Morgan told us the city has plans to rent those spaces out to RVers visiting the city at any time, not just during events.

Morgan told us that the city hopes to have the new “Amazon RV park” completed by the end of 2026. Amazon will dole out the $8 million in four payments through the construction period.

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Got AAA? Save big on fuel every time you stop at Love’s

Love’s to add more RV hookups nationwide this year

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RV Daily Tips. Wednesday, May 14, 2025

Issue 2643


Today’s thought

“Life is like a prism. What you see depends on how you turn the glass.” ―Jonathan Kellerman


Need an excuse to celebrate? Today is National Dance Like A Chicken Day!

On this day in history: 1804 – William Clark and 42 men depart from Camp Dubois to join Meriwether Lewis at St. Charles, Missouri, marking the beginning of the Lewis and Clark Expedition‘s historic journey up the Missouri River.


Tip of the day
What’s better for you: Class C motorhome or Class B van conversion?

By Russ and Tiña De Maris
Here’s a question that some new-to-RVing wonder about: “I’ve never had an RV before, and I’ll be traveling alone with my dog. I’m intimidated by big vehicles, and I want fuel efficiency but comfort, too. What do you think about a Class B motorhome?” Here are a few things to think about.

Depending on your circumstances, a van-conversion RV may be just the ticket to getting into the RV lifestyle. It’s small enough you can park it in your garage but still has the comforts of a kitchen and bathroom. It looks so much like a large van, why, it couldn’t be all that difficult to drive, could it?

All these things are true. It may be that a Class B is, as Goldilocks said, “Just right.” But before you plunk down your money… Continue reading.


Ask Dave
RV’s two smaller slide rooms retract but larger kitchen one will not

Hi, Dave,
My Teton has three slides with a single hydraulic pump with three valves. The bedroom and dining slides work fine but the kitchen slide will not retract. It is the heavy one with fridge and other appliances. Any ideas? Thanks. —Herb, 2003 39′ Teton Experience 5th wheel Read Dave’s answer.


In the RV shop with Dustin
The importance of wheel bearing pack service for safe RV travel

Join Ashley in our RV shop as she highlights a critical yet often overlooked maintenance task: wheel bearing pack service. If you’re gearing up for your next adventure, don’t forget to ensure your travel trailer or 5th wheel is road-ready! Here’s why this service is so important.


Article and video
RV tech’s RV buying advice—10 steps to follow

By Cheri Sicard
Buying an RV can be exciting. But it can also be a minefield if you don’t know what you’re doing. Through helping tons of people navigate the RV-buying process, one thing has become clear to certified RV tech Jacob Rigor: skipping steps leads to trouble. Often, it means getting a raw deal from the industry. Other times, it just means ending up with an RV that doesn’t quite fit. The good news is that with the right approach, these pitfalls can be avoided.


RANDOM RV THOUGHT: Always double-check that your refrigerator is shut tight before hitting the road. If not, you could have a mess on your hands.


Featured article
Get your teeth cleaned, a chiropractic adjustment, your hair cut, and your dog bathed at the world’s largest truck stop

By Emily Woodbury
Iowa 80, located off Hwy. 80 in Walcott, Iowa, is the world’s largest truck stop. How large are we talking? 220 acres large (which, by the way, is four times larger than the average truck stop). The site receives more than 5,000 visitors daily, which evens out to about one million cups of coffee and 90 tons of meat served annually. Holy cow! Learn more.


Reader poll
How many TV/movie streaming services are you currently subscribed to?

Respond here.

Previous poll: What percentage of RVtravel.com readers always or sometimes wear socks to bed? Is it about a third, half or two-thirds? Find out here


Camp at thousands of amazing destinations without crowds or stress—now with hookups!
If you’ve been considering a Harvest Hosts membership, now is the time to buy. Save 15% on a membership and never worry about securing crowded summer campground reservations again. Camp in peace and quiet on farms, wineries, breweries, at museums, and much, much more. Learn more.


Quick tip
Screening out bright light

Pestered by brilliant light shining in their rig windows (including the windshield) but not wanting to go to a “black out” situation, Phil came up with a hit: “I bought some solar screen material like you would use for south-facing windows, cut it to shape (slightly oversized) for the windshield and side windows. My wife hemmed the edges, into which I inserted some flat, round, super-strong magnets. The magnets have no problem holding the screening on the metal body that surrounds the doors and windshield. Now, I can quickly cover all three windows and keep the intense heat buildup under control, no matter which way the rig is facing.” Here are some disc magnets on Amazon.


On this day last year…


Website of the day

Airbnb: Airstream & Camper Rentals
It’s the best of both worlds—you still get to “camp” in an RV, but it’s not yours so you don’t have to worry about reservations or parking! Explore this page and you’ll find incredible Airstreams and campers to book through Airbnb.


? MYSTERY PRODUCT OF THE DAY ?
Make yourself laugh and your wife scream. Or perhaps make yourself laugh and make your husband scream. Either way, someone will laugh and someone will scream! See why.


Trivia

In 1949, Popular Mechanics predicted that computers today would weigh approximately 1.5 tons. Wow! In the March 1949 edition, they wrote: “Where a calculator like ENIAC today is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and perhaps weigh only 1.5 tons.”


Readers’ pet of the day

“Pattie (retired Greyhound racer, age 8) was going to be ‘Lulabell’, but her first night here, she serenaded us in many octaves so she got the name she deserves, Pattie La Belle. She is very vocal and loves her rides.” —Pauline Klein

Send us a photo of your pet with a short description. No blurry photos and please do not submit your photo more than once. Thanks!

RVing with Dogs group on Facebook. You’ll love it.


Leave here with a laugh

Why couldn’t the pony sing a lullaby?
She was a little horse.


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Oh, and if you missed the Latest News for RVers, make sure to catch up here.


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RV’s two smaller slide rooms retract but larger kitchen one will not

Hi, Dave,
My Teton has three slides with a single hydraulic pump with three valves. The bedroom and dining slide rooms work fine but the kitchen slide room will not retract. It is the heavy one with fridge and other appliances. Any ideas? Thanks. —Herb, 2003 39′ Teton Experience 5th wheel

Hi, Herb,
Back in 2003 there were typically two hydraulic mechanisms available, HWH and Power Gear. Looking at some of the walk-around footage on websites, it looks as though your rig used the Power Gear hydraulic slide mechanism as well as the leveling jacks. The same motor runs all the slides and the leveling jacks by pushing hydraulic fluid to the desired mechanism.

What to check

As with any RV slide room troubleshooting, I recommend plugging the unit into a verified 120-volt power source so the converter/charger will be providing a full 13.2 volts of power to the motor. If you are trying to retract the larger slide while dry camping, the batteries may be sulfated and too weak to handle the high amp draw of the larger, heavier slide room. Also, make sure the unit is level and secured as an uneven foundation could cause too much restriction with a twisted frame.

If the situation is the same with the unit plugged in and level, the next item I would check is 12-volt power from the switch to the motor. When you press the retract button, do you hear the motor trying to retract or even a click? If there is nothing, I would start with the switch, which might be bad or has an open circuit going to the motor.

Next, check that the room will actually retract manually by using the manual override procedure listed in the owner’s manual. This consists of the following:

Manually overriding your slideout system

Your Power Gear slideout system is equipped with a manual override that allows you to extend or retract the room in the event of a loss of power.

NOTE: If the RV slide room does not move when the switch is pressed, make sure

  • the slideout system is turned on;
  • the battery is fully charged and connected;
  • the transit bars are removed (if so equipped).

After the previous items have been checked and the room still does not move when the slideout switch is pressed, follow these steps to manually override your slideout room:

1. Turn “OFF” the on/off switch or key (if so equipped). NOTE: The override will not work if the switch is turned on.

2. Locate the slideout electrical controller (refer to your dealer or RV manufacturer for location). There are two versions of the controller. For version 1, unplug the 6-pin wiring harness from the controller. For version 2, remove one of the motor leads, either the motor I or motor II lead, from the controller.

3. Locate the slideout motor (Fig. 4 below). It will be mounted to one of the slideout rails. NOTE: If the RV has an underbelly or a cover over the motor, these parts must be removed to access the motor.

4. Rotate the brake lever, on the backside of the motor, counter-clockwise (looking from the rear of the motor) about 1/8 of a turn to the released position. Refer to Fig. 3 below. This will release the brake that holds the room in place.

5. Locate the manual override for the slideout system. Refer to Fig. 4 below.

6. The room is now free to move. Using either a 5/8” or 3/4” wrench or socket, crank the room either in or out completely (depending on your needs). NOTE: If the slideout system is supplied with a gearbox override (optional), use the crank handle to move the room.

7. When the room is fully in (or out) apply pressure to the wrench/ratchet and return the brake lever to its engaged position. This will ensure the room is locked into a sealed position.

8. Install the transit bars to the slideout room (if so equipped) and take the unit to an authorized dealer for service

Power Gear Brake
Power gear brake (click/tap to enlarge)
Power Gear Manual Over Ride
Power gear manual override (click/tap to enlarge)

What the cause could be

If the unit can be retracted manually, it is something in the wiring or possibly air in the hydraulic line that can handle the smaller units, but not the larger one.

If the unit cannot be retracted manually, it is something in the mechanism such as a sheared gear or the room is out of tolerance.

If there is a bow in the floor, the resistance is too great for the motor to retract the room. Same with an out-of-alignment situation of the sidewalls.


 You might also enjoy these posts from Dave 


Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

Read more from Dave here

HAVE A QUESTION FOR DAVE?

Send your inquiries to him using the form below.

Name
Drag & Drop Files, Choose Files to Upload

RVDT2643

What’s better for you: Class C motorhome or Class B van conversion?

5

By Russ and Tiña De Maris
Here’s a question that some new-to-RVing wonder about: “I’ve never had an RV before, and I’ll be traveling alone with my dog. I’m intimidated by big vehicles, and I want fuel efficiency but comfort, too. What do you think about a Class B motorhome?” Here are a few things to think about.

Depending on your circumstances, a van-conversion RV may be just the ticket to getting into the RV lifestyle. It’s small enough you can park it in your garage but still has the comforts of a kitchen and bathroom. It looks so much like a large van, why, it couldn’t be all that difficult to drive, could it?

All these things are true. It may be that a Class B is, as Goldilocks said, “Just right.” But before you plunk down your money, explore a few areas such as that concern about being “intimidated by large vehicles.” Experienced motorhome drivers say there’s not a lot of difference between driving a car and driving a motorhome. It’s largely a matter of practice: They don’t drive a whole lot differently, there’s just a couple of things to catch onto. You’ll soon get the hang of it.

Driving a smaller Class C motorhome (a van chassis with a motorhome built onto it) is a breeze. But what about fuel economy? Class B motorhomes aren’t really much better on fuel economy than a Class C. That’s because you’ve still got plenty of weight tied up in the conversion stuff. Add the “bumped up” roof and aerodynamics aren’t all that great. Still, you may like that part of parking your rig in the garage.

Where the real differences between a Class B and a Class C come into play are in the living space. Class B rigs are, by necessity, very compact. You probably won’t have the luxury of sticking your legs out and relaxing while “sitting on the throne.” When it’s time to fix a meal, you’d best keep it REAL simple. The typical amount of counter space is a bit like a postage stamp. Storage space is at a premium, so don’t expect to bring much “stuff” with you. Holding tanks, too, are much smaller. You can count on more frequent trips to the waste dump station.

If you’re into quick weekend trips where you’ll be out and about, away from the RV, that’s one thing. Do your plans take you into longer trips and you’ll be spending time in the RV? The tightness of the space could begin to wear on you. If claustrophobia is an issue, be sure to step into the shower space of any Class B you’re looking at buying. It could be a real eye-opener.

Here’s what may be the best suggestion: Rent a Class B unit and take it out on a trip. Do your cooking, showering and sleeping. Then rent a Class C unit and do the same. It’s a whole lot less expensive than picking one or the other and buying it, only to find you’ve made the wrong choice.

Make sure you read our weekly RV reviews to take a look at the latest Class C and B models. There are hundreds!

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY:

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RV tech’s RV buying advice—10 steps to follow

By Cheri Sicard
Buying an RV can be exciting. But it can also be a minefield if you don’t know what you’re doing. Through helping tons of people navigate the RV-buying process, one thing has become clear to certified RV tech Jacob Rigor: Skipping steps leads to trouble. Often, it means getting a raw deal from the industry. Other times, it just means ending up with an RV that doesn’t quite fit.

The good news is that with the right approach, these pitfalls can be avoided. In the video below, Jacob shares his 10-step process to help anyone steer clear of RV regrets.

RV buying advice—10 steps to success

Step 1: Define a camping style

“What’s the best RV?” is a common question. While some brands do stand out, the real question is, “What do you want to do with the RV?”

Think about things like camping frequency (occasional, full-time, or part-time), location preferences (RV parks, on-grid, or off-grid), and driving distances between destinations. These answers will determine the ideal RV type.

Step 2: Set a budget

How much can one afford to spend on an RV, and how will it be paid for? Will it be cash, or will it be financed? Consider these questions to avoid getting overextended.

Step 3: Choose an RV type

A camping style and budget will determine what type of RV actually works. It’s time to decide what’s essential.

For instance, if someone camps off-grid, a generator is a must-have. However, not all RVs include one. Choose the RV style that best suits your needs.

Step 4: Plan for other vehicles

RV shoppers often mess this step up. Choosing an RV that’s too big for the tow vehicle is a common and dangerous scenario. It can cause an accident. 

RV salespeople might not know the math, and even if they do, they can’t help because it requires real-world weight measurements. Truck manufacturers’ towing numbers are often inaccurate.

With motorhomes, it’s important to consider transportation to the destination. Is driving the motorhome everywhere okay, or is towing another vehicle preferable? If towing, is the motorhome strong enough? What will be towed, and how? Not all cars can be towed the same way. Many RVers have damaged their tow-behind vehicles because they didn’t understand the limitations.

Step 5: Pick a floor plan and features

This is where salespeople tend to focus. But the previous four steps need to be done first. Otherwise, it’s easy to end up with something beautiful that doesn’t actually suit a camping style.

Step 6: Research each candidate RV

Research these three things on any RV you are considering buying:

Component quality: RVs vary in quality. Research appliances, countertops, slide-outs, cabinets, and the roof.

Known issues and recalls: RV manufacturers compete to create new floor plans and features, but RVs aren’t heavily regulated. New floor plans might have unforeseen issues.

Customer service reputation: This is important for new RVs because new RVs always need warranty work. It’s not “if,” but “when” and “how much.” Know where warranty work can be done. Can it be done at any dealership, or does it have to go back to a specific one? Is there even a dealership nearby? Will they work with mobile technicians? If buying used and outside the warranty, the company’s customer service matters less.

Step 7: Decide where to buy

Dealerships are the most common option, but you might opt for a private sale.

Step 8: Get the RV inspected by a third party

There are three big reasons to get a third-party RV inspection:

1. Avoiding lemons: Lemon RVs are real.

2. Expediting warranty repairs: It’s better to have an RV waiting for warranty work that one isn’t paying a monthly note on. Dealerships finance RVs and want to sell them quickly. Fixing issues becomes a high priority for them.

3. Gaining negotiation power: It’s harder to make an impulse decision when an inspector is involved. The inspection provides more information for negotiating a fairer deal.

Step 9: Negotiation

The goal here is to get a fair price. Understanding what the RV is worth requires research and the inspection results, which reveal any issues.

Step 10: Post-purchase care

To avoid the repair shop, take good care of the RV. Jacob says that least 25% of repairs are preventable.

Following these 10 steps can make the RV-buying process less stressful. Defining a camping style, setting a budget, and planning for other vehicles are crucial early steps. Researching RVs, getting inspections, and negotiating fairly ensures a good deal. And taking care of the RV after purchase prevents future headaches.

RELATED

RVDT2643

The importance of wheel bearing pack service for safe RV travel

Join Ashley in the RV shop as she highlights a critical yet often overlooked maintenance task: wheel bearing pack service. If you’re gearing up for your next adventure, don’t forget to ensure your travel trailer or 5th wheel is road-ready!

Why are wheel bearings important?

Wheel bearings are the unsung heroes of your RV, allowing your wheels to spin smoothly and safely as you travel. Over time, they endure wear and tear, which can lead to overheating, damage, or even a wheel failure if not properly maintained.

The importance of regular service

Regular wheel bearing pack service prevents unexpected breakdowns, ensures safe travels, and extends the life of your RV. Neglecting this vital service can lead to costly repairs and dangerous situations on the road.

How often should you service your wheel bearings?

It’s recommended to have your wheel bearings packed and inspected every 12,000 miles or 12 months—whichever comes first.

Staying on top of this schedule keeps your RV in peak condition and gives you peace of mind during your journeys.

Schedule today!

Don’t let neglected maintenance ruin your adventure. Keep your travels worry-free by scheduling your wheel bearing pack service today. Safe and smooth roads are just a step away!

More from Dustin

Make sure you check out our website, California RV Specialists, and our YouTube channel for more helpful information, and see our published articles on RVtravel.com and other social media pages.

RELATED

RVDT2643

Terrifying fire: RV consumed by flames in busy highway tunnel

Ever get nervous when piloting your RV through an enclosed highway tunnel? Worry about what might happen if there were a fire? One RVer found out in real time on Monday. The Class A motorhome driver stacked it up on a center median barrier in Washington state’s I-90 Mount Baker Tunnel. His response to the RV fire in a tunnel was probably not the brightest we’ve seen. Video later fills in the details.

RV fire in a tunnel shows what you SHOULDN’T do

It all started just after noon on Monday, May 12. The big rig was well into the tunnel headed east out of Seattle. While details are sketchy, it was suggested that the motorhome and a car mixed it up, and the motorhome ended up on the center barrier. State highway department cameras caught the resulting flames—and the RVer’s reaction.

So, put yourself in this guy’s shoes. Your RV is stacked up, and the front end is on fire. You’re in an enclosed tunnel, with not a lot of options on where to run. It’s likely you’d choose to bail out and head for the nearest available exit.

Not this guy. He starts grabbing stuff out of the rig to take with him. All the while, flames (and associated toxic fumes) are roiling all around him. Somehow, according to law enforcement reports, everybody, including “Hapless Harry”, as we’re dubbing him, made it away without injuries.

So, what SHOULD you do?

RV fire in a tunnel
Take these actions — FAST. (Click/tap to enlarge).

So what to do in a tunnel fire? Quick thinking—and a quick reaction—may save your bacon from being fried.

RV tunnel fire ruins commuters’ whole day

There could well have been “injuries” to the emotions of other drivers. Some east-bounders in the tunnel didn’t waste time. They turned their cars around and blasted back to fresh air. Other drivers who were planning on making a trip through the Mount Baker Tunnel found themselves stuck in heavy traffic.

RV fire in a tunnel
Still mopping up hours after the crash. Washington State Patrol photo.

The whole mess backed up Interstate 90—and other stretches of pavement throughout the Seattle metro area—for hours. Firefighters finally got the motorhome inferno out, using foam, around 2:30. The tunnel itself didn’t reopen until 5:00 in the evening, with plenty of time to mess up the afternoon rush hour.

Local TV station, KING5, run a full story, including dramatic footage of the fire itself.

RELATED

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RV Daily Tips. Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Issue 2642


Today’s thought

“Today you are you! That is truer than true! There is no one alive who is you-er than you!” —Dr. Seuss


Need an excuse to celebrate? Today is National Frog Jumping Day! (It’s also Chuck Woodbury’s birthday! Happy Birthday, Chuck!)

On this day in history: 1958 – Ben Carlin becomes the first (and only) person to circumnavigate the world by amphibious vehicle, having traveled over 17,000 kilometers (11,000 miles) by sea and 62,000 kilometers (39,000 miles) by land during a ten-year journey.


Tip of the day
You’re using laundry detergent all wrong!

By Gail Marsh
“You’re doing it wrong!” I bristled at the words. After six decades of doing laundry, I know how to wash our clothes correctly!

Turns out, I was wrong. You’ve probably heard the saying “Too much of a good thing”? Well, that apparently applies to laundry detergent! I mistakenly thought that if I used more detergent in the washer, my clothes would be cleaner (no spots or stains) and smell better (no leftover smoke smell from the campfire). My fellow RVer, who also happened to be a chemist before retiring, patiently set me straight.

What he taught me resulted in brighter and softer clothes. In addition, I ended up using much less detergent and saving money! Continue reading.


Tips from this weekend you may have missed:


Ask Dave
My RV’s two 6-volt house batteries are dead. Can I use the 12-volt from my Jeep?

Dear Dave, 
My RV’s two 6-volt house batteries are dead and I was wondering if I could take the 12-volt battery out of my Jeep that I am going to store for a while and use it instead. Will it have enough power to operate the slides and the hydraulic stabilizers? The battery is only 9 months old and used on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 TJ. Thanks. —Harry, 35-ft. 2000 Fleetwood Pace Arrow MH  Read Dave’s answer.


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My RV’s two 6-volt house batteries are dead. Can I use the 12-volt from my Jeep?

Dear Dave, 
My RV’s two 6-volt house batteries are dead and I was wondering if I could take the 12-volt battery out of my Jeep that I am going to store for a while and use it instead. Will it have enough power to operate the slides and the hydraulic stabilizers? The battery is only 9 months old and used on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 TJ. Thanks. —Harry, 35-ft. 2000 Fleetwood Pace Arrow MH

Dear Harry,
Technically, yes, you can use the automotive 12-volt battery in your RV’s house system to replace the dead 6-volt batteries as they were connected in series, positive to negative, to create a 12-volt battery “bank.” However, your current batteries are “deep cycle,” meaning they are designed to be drawn down to 50% state of charge (SOC) and recharged repeatedly, which is the deep cycle.

Current batteries

The current batteries are designed to provide constant voltage for a long period of time, sometimes days, and are rated in amp hours (Ah) for how long they can provide 25 amps of power. Fleetwood has always been a fan of the 6-volt batteries and used them for years as they typically have more Ah ratings and provide more cycles. Since your rig is a 2000, I would assume your batteries are not original.

6-Volt Batteries
6-volt batteries

Automotive batteries

Automotive batteries are rating in cold cranking amps (CCA) and designed to provide a high amp power for 30 seconds to turn over an engine for starting purposes. They are not designed to provide power for a long period of time and do not liked to be drained and recharged or “cycled.” They will go dead fairly quickly if used in this application.

However, it depends on how you will be using your rig, meaning dry camping or being plugged into shoreline power. If you are dry camping and need to drain the battery and periodically recharge it, the automotive battery will not last long. However, if you are going to be plugged into shoreline power, the converter/charger of your rig will provide voltage to the battery and ultimately to the 12-volt system, depending on the type of charger you have.

If it is a typical converter/charger, it will provide a constant 13.2 volts, which will power everything and not do much damage to the automotive battery. If you have a converter that is designed to condition or desulfate the battery, like the older Progressive Dynamics models, it might provide a higher voltage charge in the range of 13.8 volts for eight hours. That might not be good for your automotive battery. If you have an inverter/charger like the green Freedom 2000 in the above photo, it could have a multi-stage charge that is also not a good charging profile.

Also, if you are going to be plugged in most of the time, you can leave the dead 6-volt batteries in the system and have the converter/charger provide constant power. However, it will sense the low SOC and run at a higher voltage—which could eventually ruin the converter.

Variables to consider

There are several variables to consider. I think either way you will need a new battery somewhere in the equation. If you use the automotive battery, most likely you will need a new one when you bring the Jeep out of storage. Or you buy a new 12-volt deep cycle battery for the rig up front and size it to the Ah you need for dry camping.


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Dave Solberg is a leading expert in the RV industry and the author of the “RV Handbook.”

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